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Ummmm! TAG/Thomas Fogarty Umami Wine Dinner

TAG’S Chef Troy Guard prepares umami-intense dishes for the

über-edgy wines by Thomas Fogarty winemaker Michael Martella

On November 30, 2011 Michael Martella, the winemaker for Thomas Fogarty Vineyards in Santa Cruz Mountains since its inception in 1981, will visit TAG to present his wines, representing the absolute cutting edge in the crisper, moderately scaled, cold climate grown contemporary style to which more and more wine lovers are turning these days.

First, some background:  the Santa Cruz Mountains American Viticultural Area is one of the cradles of the California wine industry.  In the mid-nineteenth century, in fact, there were over 14,000 acres of commercial wine grapes grown on these mountain slopes, and the region was widely known as the Chaine d’Or, or “Chain of Gold.”

The post-Prohibition growth of California wine may have concentrated mostly in warmer regions like Napa Valley and Sonoma County – where grapes ripen much more easily, as long as a month before they do in Santa Cruz Mountains – but modern day pioneering vignerons like Fogarty have been quietly carving their niche, growing their sleek style of Chardonnay and exotically spiced Pinot Noirs and other red wine grapes at 2,000 ft. –plus elevations, chilled by winds blowing in from the Pacific just 10 miles away.

Because of the intrinsic balance and emphasis on terroir (i.e. “sense of place,” often with minerally complexities) rather than simple varietal fruitiness of the Thomas Fogarty wines, TAG Chef Troy Guard has planned a special menu – working with longtime friend, wine journalist Randy Caparoso (the award winning founding partner of the Roy’s family of restaurants, and today, an editor for Sommelier Journal) – that emphasizes the “fifth sensation,” known as umami.

What is umami, and why such a big deal?  While not an everyday term, umami is one of the common sensations everyone tastes in foods and drinks, along with the sensations of sweet, sour, salty and bitter (the hot taste of spices might be considered a sixth sensation, but it is considered more of a tactile feel rather than something perceived by taste buds).

Caparoso, who will be guest speaking alongside Mr. Martella at this winemaker dinner, tells us, “if you boil it all down, umami is nothing more than a taste activated in by ingredients containing high amounts of amino acid.  A vine ripened heirloom tomato, for instance, is especially high in umami; so is authentic Parmigiano Reggiano, seaweeds, mushrooms, especially truffles and sea urchin, and the highly reduced veal and seafood stocks traditionally used by chefs as the bases of sauces that help bind and intensify dishes.

 “In restaurants the deliberate use of ingredients that are high in amino acids especially comes in handy when preparing dishes specifically to bind and balance matching wines, in the same way that sauces do.  After all, the best balanced dishes are always the easiest to match with wines; and vice-versa, the best balanced wines are always the easiest to match with food.”

Hence, the high umami menu planned for the wines of Thomas Fogarty, which by nature of their mountain origins are appreciated more for their balance rather than brute strength, and aromatic complexities as opposed to simple “varietal character.”

So are you ready for some high elevation culinary adventure?  Your entrée to this event, taking place in TAG’s underground dining room, is just $68/person (plus tax and gratuity).  Reservations are by pre-payment, which you can make by calling TAG at 303.996.9985, or through opentable.com.  The works:

Thomas Fogarty Vineyards & TAG present

a Santa Cruz Mountains wine meets umami dinner

November 30, 2011

with guest winemaker, Thomas Fogarty’s Michael Martella

& guest umami host, Randy Caparoso

amuse-gueule

Veal cheeks arancini with butternut squash & parmigiano reggiano

2008 Thomas Fogarty, Monterey Gewürztraminer

1

Fresh lemon grass lobster roll with monkfish paté, tarragon, mitusuba & crispy fennel

2008 Thomas Fogarty, Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay

2

Fresh roasted sea bass with soba & wakame in grilled tomato seafood broth

2008 Thomas Fogarty, Rapley Trail Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Estate Pinot Noir

3

Ravioli of crispy sweetbreads & porcini with Swiss chard & tofu skin

2007 Thomas Fogarty, Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Franc

4

Tasmanian pepper berry lamb with

smoked heirloom potato, charred onion soubise & pecorino salad

2006 Thomas Fogarty, Lexington Santa Cruz Mountains Meritage

5

Chocolate beet cake, sea urchin gelato & Sicilian pistachio crumble

Coffee or tea

Troy Guard

TAG chef/owner